Rodarte Makes Delicate Vampire the Must-Have Beauty Look of Fall 2020 – Vogue

Kate and Laura Mulleavy chose one of New Yorks most iconic 19th-century churches as their Fall Rodarte show venue, and the Gothic innuendo was thick even before Bella Hadid made her way past St. Bartholomews candlelit altar in the collections first look. Its Winona in Dracula, makeup artist James Kaliardos confirmed of the sister duos inspiration backstage, quoting one of the most memorable lines from the Bram Stoker novel-turned-1992 Francis Ford Coppola classic: I have crossed oceans of time to find you.

Ryders character was certainly present, courtesy of a near-exact replica of her hair in the film: a small chignon fastened at the top of the head by hairstylist Odile Gilbert anchored colored veils with real and fake flowers or jewel-encrusted crowns, and cascaded into loose waves that hung down models backs. But her onscreen makeup was given a modern runway update by Kaliardos, who pulled off something graphic that didnt look too scaryno easy feat.

So, how to do delicate vampire chic? Kaliardos advocates for a controlled glow," which he achieved by dotting a little light onto the high points of otherwise pale, matte complexions with NARSs new Tinted Glow Booster, a creamy liquid with a hint of sheen. Then he added a swipe of blush across the outer reaches of the temples. We didnt really want blush, he explained, recalling his makeup tests with the Mulleavys. But we kind of did. The technique, which only revealed itself in profile, provided the best of both worlds.

Three individual Lashify lashes on the corners of lids for Dietrich fantasy, and a precise slick of NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Train Bleua classic Bordeauxcompleted the cinematic update, which got a hint of whimsy from the Mulleavys seasonal collaboration with Los Angeles-based floral designer Joseph Free. Theyre fabric-y looking, Free said of the rich, purple and cream vanda orchids he and his team were fastening into garlands to be worn as flower boas and head pieces on the runway. When asked what happens to the stunning sculptural pieces once the show is over, Free shrugged. Trash, unless some intrepid person takes one. But they won't really last. That's the thing about flowers, he continued. They die. How perfectly macabre.

See the original post here:
Rodarte Makes Delicate Vampire the Must-Have Beauty Look of Fall 2020 - Vogue